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Click on the individual part
below to learn how it functions with in your vehicle's
A/C System.
compressors,
evaporators,
condensers,
accumulators,
orifice tubes,
expansion valves,
weld-on-barbs,
splicer
barbs,
engine cooling fan,
hoses and belts,
receiver/dryers |
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Manufacturer & Supplier of Auto
AUTO AIR
AND ELECTRIC OF TAMPA HOSES AND BELTS |
Auto Air & Electric of Tampa sells a complete inventory
of New & Remanufactured parts.
We are a manufacturer and
distributor of automobile air conditioning parts and
provide automobile air conditioning service and repair.
We order supplies directly
from the after market manufacturers, if we don't have
what you need in stock, we can make it for you. |
How to inspect belts and hoses
A belt or hose failure can cause an overheated engine, loss of
power steering, and loss of the electrical charging system. If a
hose leaks coolant or the belt turning the water pump snaps, the
cooling system is inoperable. If the engine overheats, it can
suffer serious internal damage that requires expensive repairs
and can ruin a summer vacation.
Overheating can occur anytime, but usually happens in the
summer. Underhood temperatures are much higher, and heat can
trigger or accelerate deterioration of rubber compounds.
COOLANT AND HEATER HOSES
Hoses are the cooling system's weakest structural component.
They are made of flexible rubber compounds to absorb vibrations
between the engine and radiator, or, in the case of heater
hoses, the engine and body's firewall. Designed to hold coolant
under high pressure, hoses are also subjected to fluctuating
extremes of heat and cold, dirt, oils and sludge. Atmospheric
ozone also attacks rubber compounds.
The most damaging cause of hose failure—electrochemical
degradation (ECD)—isn't easy to detect. According to engineers
for the Gates Corporation, a parts maker, ECD attacks hoses from
the inside, causing tiny cracks. Acids and contaminants in the
coolant can then weaken the yarn material that reinforces the
hose. Eventually, pinholes can develop or the weakened hose may
rupture from heat, pressure, or constant flexing.
Some easy, basic maintenance can help prevent coolant hose
failure:
- Check the white coolant-recovery
tank often to ensure proper fluid level. Marks on the tank
indicate the proper level for when the engine is cold or
hot. If the tank is low after repeated fillings, suspect a
leak. Also check for white, light green, or pink coolant
tracks in the engine bay, which is residue left from leaking
coolant.
- When the engine is cool, squeeze the
hoses with your thumb and forefinger near the clamps, where
ECD most often occurs. Feel for soft or mushy spots. A good
hose will have a firm yet pliant feel.
- Inspect for cracks, nicks, bulges
usually while hot), or a collapsed section in the hose and
oil contamination, or fraying near the connection points.
- Look for parallel cracks around
bends (caused by ozone), a hardened glassy surface (heat
damage), or abrasive damage (hose is rubbing).
- Flush and replace the coolant
according to the owner's manual. Clean coolant is less
likely to support ECD.
- Never remove the radiator cap when
the engine is hot. Also, be aware that an electric cooling
fan can come on at any time.
The upper radiator hose fails more often than any other hose,
followed by the water pump bypass hose (if your vehicle is so
equipped), and the outlet heater hose from the engine to the
heater core. Experts recommend, however, that all hoses be
replaced at least every four years or when one fails. Always use
replacement hoses designed to fight ECD. Trademarks will vary
among hose manufacturers (Gates uses "ECR" for Electro-Chemical
Resistant). Look for a "Type EC" label on the hose or its
packaging. That is a Society of Automotive Engineers standard
signifying "electrochemical." Most vehicles built after 1993
come with ECD-resistant hoses.
ACCESSORY BELTS
Many of the same elements that attack hoses also attack
belts—heat, oil, ozone, and abrasion. Almost all cars and trucks
built today have a single multi-grooved serpentine belt that
drives the alternator, water pump, power-steering pump, and
air-conditioning compressor. Older vehicles may have separate
V-belts that drive the accessories. The Car Care Council says
chances of a V-belt failure rise dramatically after four years
or 36,000 miles, while the critical point for a serpentine belt
is 50,000 miles. Any belt should be changed when it shows signs
of excessive wear. But many new composite belts don't show signs
of wear until the failure occurs.
Here are tips for inspecting belts:
- Look for cracks, fraying, or splits
on the top cover.
- Look for signs of glazing on the
belt's sides. Glazed or slick belts can slip, overheat or
crack.
- Twist a serpentine belt to look for
separating layers, cracks, or missing chunks of the grooves
on the underside.
Replacement belts should be identical in length, width, and
number of grooves to the factory belt. Serpentine belts are
usually kept tight with an automatic tensioner. Signs of a
belt-tension problem include a high-pitched whine or chirping
sound and vibration noises. Without proper tension, belts will
slip and generate heat or fail to turn the accessories.
If in doubt, check with a qualified technician about any cooling
problems, and always consult your owner's manual for routine
maintenance procedures.
Source:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/tires-auto-parts/car-maintenance/how-to-inspect-belts-and-hoses-1205/overview/index.htm
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